Tag: Shawl

  • Khawaja Saududdin Shawl (1873-1955)

    Khawaja Saududdin Shawl (1873-1955)

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    In Kashmir tehreek against the despotic Dogra rule, one of the major characters was businessman, Khawaja Sauddin Shawl, whose contribution is least known and hardly acknowledged. MJ Aslam offers the text and context to Shawl’s rise, contributions and eventual silence

    Saududin Shawl in a group photograph with his family members scaled
    Saududin Shawl in a group photograph with his family members

    Khawaja Sanaullah Shawl was the most prominent merchant of nineteenth-century Kashmir. He had three sons, Ghulam Hassan, Noor ud Din and Saududdin. Among the three, Khawaja Saududdin Shawl, born at Mohalla Mir e Masjid (Khanyar) in 1873 AD, rose to prominence during the second quarter of the twentieth century. His contributions to the politics of Kashmir are least known and hardly acknowledged. He was the pioneer of Kashmir’s movement against despotic Dogra rule.

    Shawl had a dream of seeing his people living with dignity and honour, free of intimation and fear, in a decolonised democratic world that the subcontinent was gradually shaping to be after a few decades. He was the leading political figure during the initial political awakenings among Kashmiri Muslims.

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    Shawls were an influential family. Living at Mir Masjid, they had a huge garden that locals called Shawl-e-Bagh. It was a miniature Badamwari.

    They had a beautiful Dewankhana, where guests, local and non-local, would come, sit and discuss matters of general interest for hours together. It was open to State officers, leaders, clergy, foreign tourists and traders also. It played host to several political meetings of “budding” Muslim leaders as well.

    Businessman Sanaullah was a generous giver, according to Mohammad Yousuf Shawl, grandson of Saududdin Shawl, who inherited this quality. “My grandfather Khawja Saududdin Shawl with his domestic help, Qadir Kak, would remain busy round the year in distributing ration items like rice, salt, sugar, tea, charcoal, and clothes among the needy visitors to Shawl Family,” he said. A leading philanthropist, he is credited for the renovations and refurbishment of some of Kashmir’s major shrines and some masjids.

    One historical masjid, known as Thong e Masjid at Thong e Mohalla, Victory Crossing near Hotel Burj, Khanyar, Srinagar was built under the benefaction of Aqil Mir, a God-fearing Muslim and Commandant of ration supplies, Darogha i Rasd, of Kashmir during Shah Jahan’s reign (1628-1658). The masjid fell in ruins in the nineteenth century pushing Shawl to rebuild it. By 1869, he had added a grand Hammam and a Khanqah to it. “My grandfather donated 14 kanals of ancestral vegetable-growing land to Thong e Masjid for its maintenance,” Mohammad Yousuf said. “The land is to date used by the masjid for its maintenance.”

    Worth mentioning here, Aqil Mir built another mosque that retained his name. It is still known as Masjid e Aqilmir and the Mohalla is also Aqilmir.

    Saududdin was born at a time when modern education barely existed in Kashmir. He received his initial education in traditional Maktab schools. To enable him to learn Urdu, Persian and Arabic, the family sources said they had hired a teacher, Behram Ji, who was a resident of Bombay. He gave him private tuition in the English language also.

    The Year of Turmoil

    For the first time in his life, Shawl rose to prominence during the consequential developments of 1924. The Muslim “labourers” of Silk Factory Solina Srinagar had long pending grievances against the Dogra administration.  On March 20, 1920, they formally demanded the removal of some communal and corrupt Pandit officers from the factory. Besides, they demanded an increase in their wages. As the administration avoided looking into the labourer’s petition, the workers suspended their work in the factory in July 1924.

    The British Resident also threw his weight behind the worker’s demand that some Muslim employees be elevated to the posts of responsibility but it did not help. Instead, the District Magistrate misrepresented the facts to the higher authorities at Gupkar, which worsened the situation. Some of the protesting labourers were arrested and put behind bars at Shergadi Police Station, Srinagar. When people assembled outside the police station on July 20, 1924, demanding the release of the arrested employees, the Dogra cavalry, that was deployed there at the gates, opened fire killing ten civilians and labourers on spot, leaving many injured as many others were rounded up. In a quick follow-up, the entire city was handed over to the military.

    It was a year of turmoil. The same year, Tazia procession was denied in the city by the administration which caused deep anger among the Muslims. Lahore newspaper Akhbar i Aam published an article that angered Kashmiri Pandits. They took out a procession at Khanqahi Moula Srinagar and entered the shrine sanctorium without removing their shoes. It was bitterly resented by Muslims.

    Land contributed by Saududin Shawl to the local mosque
    a vast stretch of land valuing crores of rupees was donated by Saududdin Shawl to the local masjid.

    Viceroy’s Visit

    In the aftermath of these developments and the subsequent strong-arm tactics of the administration, various Muslim organisations sent a number of telegrams to Lord Reading, the Viceroy of India. On July 22, 1924, a fact-based letter was sent drawing his attention towards the pitiable plight of the Muslim subjects. There was a response. Lord Reading visited Kashmir between October 14 and October 28.

    The Viceroy was taken in a river boat procession by the Dogra administration but the “Muslim crowds exhibited black flags bearing inscriptions such as “our mosques desecrated” and “how long will Muslims be trodden down by Hindus in this country”. A memorandum was drafted and signed at the residence of Khanyar’s Abdul Aziz Zaildar by prominent Muslim leaders.

    Agha Haidar, an advocate from Lucknow who later became a judge of the Lahore High Court, who was staying in a houseboat at Nigeen, was helpful in shaping the final draft of the memorandum. It was how Khawja Saududdin Shawl came in contact with Agha Haidar.

    History has recorded that Shawl was the main person behind bringing together all prominent Muslims, including Khawaja Hassan Shah Naqashbandi, Mirwaizi Kashmir Molvi Ahmedullah of Jamia Masjid, Molvi Hamdani, Agha Syed Hussain Shah Jalali, Mufti Sharief ud Din, Molvi Attiqullah and Haji Jaffar Khan, for a common cause of Muslims. The unanimous decision was to highlight and submit a formal memorandum to the Viceroy of India, the Paramount Guest. As the government disallowed Muslim leaders from meeting with Viceroy, Shawl took the memorandum and presented it to him when he visited a local handicraft shop. This was the act that made Shawl the “father of the modern political movement of Kashmir”.

    The memorandum flagged demands including a due share in jobs to be given to Muslims and proprietary rights of the peasants in the land to be recognised. The memorandum did not get fetch anything to the majority but it gave a fillip to their demands and grievances first time “in an organised manner”. Some of the prominent originators of the memorandum met with punishment by the Dogra monarch. A Muslim Tehsildar, Noor Shah Naqshbandi, was dismissed from service; Khawaja Hassan Shah Naqashbandi’s Jagir which fetched him Rs 4000 annually was confiscated; Syed Hussain Shah Jalali was dismissed from the office of Zaildar and Mirwaizi Kashmir Molvi Ahmedullah of Jamia Masjid and  Molvi Hamdani of Khaqah i Moula Srinagar were let off with a stern warning. Many demonstrators were summarily dealt with and punished.

    Shawl Banished

    On March 15, 1925, the house of Khawaja Saaduddin Shawl was surrounded by a contingent of 150 constables, one inspector and two sub-inspectors. He was shown an order of banishment from the State and taken in a police lorry to Kohala where he was dropped in British Punjab territory.

    Khawaja’s expulsion caused considerable reaction and resentment among the Muslims. The Youngmen Muslim Association of Jammu in their meetings on March 7-9, 1925, condemned the action. These meetings were attended by Hasan Nizami of Delhi, Azmatullah of Lahore, and Molvi Mohammad Abdullah of Lahore.

    On March 16, Mirwaiz e Kashmir, Molvi Ahmadullah of Jamia Masjid in a powerful and emotional speech highlighted that the people must be alive to the treatment that the State meted out to the Muslim subjects. It made the whole gathering burst into wails loudly. The atmosphere was filled with gloom of shrieks and sighs. Kashmir Muslim Conference, Akhbar i Kashmir Lahore and  Anjuman i Kashmiri Musalman, Gujranwala, condemned the State action against the signatories to the memorandum.

    Khawaja Saududdin Shawl left Ghulam Ahmad Ashai and Sheikh Mohammad Abdullah at Shawl House in Kahnyar somewhere before 1947.
    Khawaja Saududdin Shawl (left), Ghulam Ahmad Ashai and Sheikh Mohammad Abdullah at Shawl House in Khanyar, somewhere before 1947.

    In exile, Shawl stayed at the residence of Mian Nizamuddin of Lahore who was known as Rais e Azam of the walled city. Shawls had friendly and business ties with the Mian family of Lahore. The two families used to visit each other whenever time permitted. Shawl also stayed for some time with some Sethi family of Peshawar.  Dr Sir Mohammad Iqbal, an eminent poet, theologian and thinker, often used to come to the house of Mian Nizamuddin where he also met Shawl.

    One day, in a gathering of literary persons at Mian Nizamuddin’s residence, Iqbal was impressed with Shawl’s understanding of Shikwa and Jawab e Shikwa, two master poems of Iqbal. Shawl remained a great Iqbal follower. His banishment boomeranged as Shawl developed a close association with several prominent organisations of United Punjab and at a number of meetings the State action was condemned.

    Following the Raj Tilak of Maharaja Hari Singh in February 1926, the ban on Shawl was lifted. However, Shawl did not give up his desperation to get some justice for his people.

    Reading Room Party

    By 1930, a group of young Muslim students after completing their academic courses at Aligarh and Punjab Universities floated a Muslim Reading Room Party at Fateh Kadal, Srinagar to discuss the issues pertaining to Muslims. These young men included Sheikh Mohammad Abdullah also. This Party held public meetings. It coincided with Unjuman-e-Nusratul Islam Rajouri Kadal Srinagar, Khanqashis of Khanqah-e-Moala, Srinagar and even Ahmadiyas organising themselves for pressing forth the demands of the majority community before the Maharaja who had asked them for nominating their representatives.

    On June 21, 1931, Ghulam Ahmad Ashai announced the names of seven Muslim representatives who were tasked to bring the grievances of the Muslim community before the Maharaja. They included Molvi Mohammad Yousuf Shah, Molvi Mohammad Hamdani, Sheikh Mohammad Abdullah, Ghulam Ahmad Ashai, Syed Hassan Shah Jalali, Munshi Shahabuddin and Khawja Sauduuddin Shawl.

    Historian Bazaz terms the meeting “the most important meeting in the history of the movement” which had brought two Mirwaizs together and all Muslims across sectarian barriers, “had joined hands and the whole community was unanimous in its demands”. Shias and Sunni Muslims had after four hundred years of bloody sectarian feuds first time mended the fences with each other for a common cause.

    New Leadership

    The senior Muslim representatives did their best to build the community’s young leaders. “Mirwaiz had introduced me to the audience at Jamia Masjid as “my leader”. He asked them to deem anything I said as his own utterance,” Sheikh Abdullah later wrote of these days.

    This “opportunity” was “grabbed” by Sheikh “with both hands”, as Saraf and  Gulzar wrote. Such a broad declaration and opportunity given by Mirwaiz, to “a simple man” (according to Taffazul Hussain, Sheikh’s biographer) and “an honest man of simple thinking” (as Saraf wrote) evinces the trust Mirwaiz and other leaders had reposed in young Sheikh, the leader of the new generation.

    In his memoir, Choudhary Ghulam Abbas writes that the Mirwaiz family of Rajouri Kadal Srinagar was the most influential family of religious preachers of Kashmir and that Molvi Mohammad Yousuf Shah’s introduction of Sheikh Abdullah to the public helped him build his stature considerably. Saraf writes that some elders, Saaduddin Shawl, Molvi Mohammad Abdullah and Munshi Shabuddin, during the 1931 political awakening of Kashmiri Muslims, helped Sheikh build his image among the masses.

    Key Hub

    Shawl’s residence became the hub of political activities before and after July 13, 1931, the Martyrs Day, when 22 Muslim civilians were massacred outside Central Jail, Srinagar. Personally, Shawl remained actively involved with political developments and was part of the deputations that called on the Maharaja after July 1931 seeking his intervention and redressal to the long pending grievances of Muslim subjects.

    In September 1934, Shawl joined the Azad Muslim Conference of Mirwaiz Molvi Mohammad Yousuf Shah, which is clearly borne out by the fact that he was fielded as a candidate for Amira Kadal Constituency by the party in the first electoral process of the State, for Praja Sabha, against G M Sadiq. He lost to Sadiq of the Muslim Conference. A staunch communist, Sadiq had based himself on the popular political movement.

    Mirwaiz Ally?

    A question arises – why Shawl separated himself from the mainstream Muslim Conference? No exact answer is known. “It seems from circumstantial evidence that the gradual independent working of Sheikh Mohammad Abdullah was not to his liking,” writes Saraf. “It also seems that he was psychologically more inclined towards Mir Waiz.”

    Sheikh Mohammad Abdullah with Ayub Khan and others
    During his brief Pakistan tour in 1964, Sheikh Mohammad Abdullah is seen (from L to R) with Mirwaiz Mohammad Yousuf Shah, Choudhary M Afzal Cheema (the then Deputy Speaker of Pakistan assembly), Choudhary Ghulam Abas and Pakistan President General Ayub Khan.

    Subsequent developments might have vindicated Shawl in making a decision early.

    On the flip side of it, it needs a mention that Shawl was closely related to the Mirwaizs. A prominent religious preacher and political activist of the 1930s, Molvi Nooruddin of the Mirwaiz Party was the son-in-law (damad) of Shawl. Interestingly Mirwaiz Molvi Mohammad Yousuf Shah was the brother-in-law (Behnoyi) of Nooruddin.

    Besides, Shawls have close familial relations with Mirwaiz Molvi Mohammad Farooq too.

    For most of his life, Shawl remained away from the so-called “nationalists”, “neo-merchants” and  “educated-elite” of that era.

    The Demise

    Khawaja Saaduddin Shawl passed away on October 25, 1955 (10 Rabi-ul-Awal, 1375 AH) at the age of 82. He was laid to rest in his ancestral graveyard adjoining Thong e Masjid. He was the first among the dead of the Shawl family who was buried in the ancestral graveyard that was carved out of a large land property by Sanaullah Shawl personally.

    On the gravestone of Saududdin Shawl, the words “Bani Tahreeki Azadi Kashmir” were inscribed. These four words have interesting detail.

    It was Ghulam Jeelani Shawl, son of Khawaja Saaduddin Shawl, who, in a condolence gathering at their Khanyar residence publicly announced that he had received a message from Sheikh Mohammad Abdullah from jail suggesting that on the tombstone of the deceased the words “Bani Tahreeki Azadi Kashmir” should be inscribed.

    Shawl was survived by two sons, Ghulam Jeelani Shawl (died in 1982] and  Innayatullah Shawl [1988] and five daughters.

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    ( With inputs from : kashmirlife.net )

  • Sushmita Sen goes shopping with ex- boyfriend Rohman Shawl, daughter Alisah

    Sushmita Sen goes shopping with ex- boyfriend Rohman Shawl, daughter Alisah

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    Mumbai: Sushmita Sen went shopping with ex-boyfriend Rohman Shawl and younger daughter Alisah on Tuesday.

    Posted by a paparazzo, the video went viral. Sushmita was seen in a red tee and black pants. Her hair was tied in a neat bun and the former Miss Universe also sported shades. Sushmita exchanged pleasantries with the photographer before getting into the car. She was asked by the photographer how she was doing. Sushmita replied, “Absolutely fine”.

    In the video, a plastic bottle was thrown from Sushmita’s car, for which, the actor faced criticism online.

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    A couple of days back, the former Miss Universe dropped a workout video where she was accompanied by younger daughter Alisah and Rohman Shawl. Sushmita’s caption read, “Will is the only way” #36days. Now allowed more training!!! I leave to shoot for AARYA in Jaipur shortly…and here are my loved ones, keeping me company & helping me get back in the zone!!! Kisses Alisah Shona & @rohmanshawl… I love you guys!!! #duggadugga”

    Sushmita suffered a cardiac arrest in February and following that she has undergone angioplasty. The ‘Aarya’ actor informed her fans through social media that she was diagnosed with a 95 per cent blockage in the main artery. Since then, the actor has been updating with her health details on Instagram.

    In one of her live sessions, Sushmita requested the younger generation to get their hearts checked at regular intervals.

    Meanwhile, on the work front, the actor completed the dubbing for ‘Taali’. The series is based on the life of transgender Shreegauri Sawant. Born as Ganesh and raised in Pune, Shreegauri Sawant is a transgender activist from Mumbai. She was one of the petitioners in the National Legal Services Authority (NALSA) case of 2013, in connection with which the Supreme Court recognised a transgender person as the third gender.

    Sushmita will also wind up the pending work of “Aarya 3” soon.



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    #Sushmita #Sen #shopping #boyfriend #Rohman #Shawl #daughter #Alisah

    ( With inputs from www.siasat.com )

  • Telangana: BJP, BRS leaders trade barbs over ‘shawl’

    Telangana: BJP, BRS leaders trade barbs over ‘shawl’

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    Hyderabad: A day after Telangana Chief Minister K. Chandrasekhar Rao skipped Prime Minister Narendra Modi’s programmes in Hyderabad, the war of words continued between BJP and BRS leaders on Sunday.

    BJP state President Bandi Sanjay Kumar took to Twitter and posted a picture of the shawl that he claimed was ready to be presented to KCR, as the Chief Minister is popularly called, at a public meeting at Parade Grounds.

    “Beautiful handloom shawl would have looked even better on CM KCR, if he had attended the meeting at Parade grounds yesterday,” he said.

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    “Send the Shawl to this Madam! She may feel happy that Modi ji atleast sent a Shawl!”, replied Bharat Rashtra Samithi (BRS) leader Krishank Manne with a picture of Modi’s estranged wife Jashodaben.

    KCR had Saturday skipped the Prime Minister’s programmes which included flagging of Secunderabad-Tirupati Vande Bharat Express.

    “Invite was sent, shawl was ready and chair was kept to honour Telangana CM. But KCR continues to run away when PM Narendra Modiji visits TS. BRS govt is not cooperating for the development of TS even though Centre is committed to the development of the state,” Sanjay had tweeted after the meeting.

    Sanjay continued his attack on KCR family. “3 things that Kalvakuntla family wants, summed up by Hon’ble PM Narendra Modiji 1 – May KCR’s family be hailed 2 – The money of corruption should keep coming to KCR’s family. 3 – The money that is sent for the poor should be used in KCR’s corrupt eco-system. KCR Dora wants to keep the control of who would get what and how much. But today Modi Ji led govt has attacked the very root of corruption,” the BJP leader tweeted.



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    #Telangana #BJP #BRS #leaders #trade #barbs #shawl

    ( With inputs from www.siasat.com )

  • Sushmita Sen works out with daughter Alisha and ex-bf Rohman Shawl after 36 days of angioplasty

    Sushmita Sen works out with daughter Alisha and ex-bf Rohman Shawl after 36 days of angioplasty

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    Mumbai: Sushmita Sen is gradually recovering from her heart condition and embracing the daily routine at her own pace.

    Taking to Instagram, the former Miss Universe dropped a workout video where she was accompanied by younger daughter Alisha and former boyfriend Rohman Shawl. Sushmita’s caption read, “Will is the only way” #36days. Now allowed more training!!! I leave to shoot for AARYA in Jaipur shortly…and here are my loved ones, keeping me company & helping me get back in the zone!!! Kisses Alisah Shona & @rohmanshawl… I love you guys!!! #duggadugga”

    Sushmita suffered a cardiac arrest in February and following that she has undergone angioplasty. The ‘Aarya’ actor informed her fans through social media that she was diagnosed with a 95 per cent blockage in the main artery. Since then, the actor has been updating with her health details on Instagram.

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    In one of her live sessions, Sushmita requested the younger generation to get their hearts checked at regular intervals. Fans have always found the actor inspiring for her unconventional personal and professional choices.

    “So inspiring!!! May you live a long and healthy life. We need more ppl like you Sushmita. You cast rays of hope to ppl like me who knows something is wrong on the inside, but doctor’s don’t believe me and won’t give me that 1 test to clear my mind. We can only hope for the best. And I hope the best for everyone out there. Take care and God bless you always,” wrote a fan.

    Another fan commented, “Dedication at its best.”

    Reacting to Sushmita’s post, Rohman Shawl wrote on her post, “Thank you teacher @sushmitasen47.”

    As Sushmita has mentioned in her post, she is gearing up for the shoot of the series “Aarya Season 3”.

    Meanwhile, she completed the dubbing for ‘Taali’. The series is based on the life of transgender Shreegauri Sawant. Born as Ganesh and raised in Pune, Shreegauri Sawant is a transgender activist from Mumbai. She was one of the petitioners in the National Legal Services Authority (NALSA) case of 2013, in connection with which the Supreme Court recognised a transgender person as the third gender.

    The landmark verdict in the case was delivered in 2014. The upcoming biopic will shed light on the inspiring life of Shreegauri Sawant — her childhood, transition, and her eventual contribution to revolutionising the transgender movement in India.

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    #Sushmita #Sen #works #daughter #Alisha #exbf #Rohman #Shawl #days #angioplasty

    ( With inputs from www.siasat.com )

  • An Unfinished Shawl

    An Unfinished Shawl

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    A master craftsman died within months after a British organisation was awarded for the intricate design he displayed at an exhibition. Years later, his elder brother decided to pick the complicated art of his brother and finished the job six years later. The very expensive shawl, however, is not on sale and is being retained by the family as an emotional and artistic reunion of the two brothers, reports Bilal Bahadur and Masarat Nabi

    Kashmir’s shawl weaving is acknowledged globally. However, certain anecdotes revolving around some of the very special shawls are not in public knowledge. These stories could be as true with the shawls carrying the map of Srinagar city as it is true with certain complicated designs that were associated with certain master artisans. Recently, one such shawl made news for an interesting development.

    An artisan known for his intricate design work died within months after he started working on a pattern and it was approved by a buyer for its intricate and very expensive design. He left the shawl half-finished as the death does not keep a calendar, unlike a work schedule. For a long time, nobody could touch the shawl. Finally, the family decided that they need to pick up the threads and complete it. It took years and last month the shawl was completed.

    This is the story revolving around Shabir Ali Beigh, a master artisan known for his intricate patterns. In his lifetime, he made his presence felt within and outside Kashmir. He bagged all the awards at the state and national levels. Besides, he received the best of the best award at The Art in Action Award from Oxford University Press in 2007.

    “His work was recognised by this award, in a competition where more than 3500 artisans from around the world had come to demonstrate their works,” his brother Mehboob Ali said. “Shabir Ali got the first prize for his Kani Sozni work.”

    Within a few months after his return from London, Shabir Ali died. This left his work unfinished.

    “One day, I received a call from the Arts and Action Museum asking for the shawl position, and I told them Shabir Ali was no longer alive,” Mehboob said with moist eyes. “They wanted me to give them the shawl cutting and his needle so that they could preserve it in their museum. I suggested they recognise my brother’s work and put his name and state on the (unfinished) shawl, but they didn’t agree. I refused to give them the unfinished work.”

    It was after this acrimonious conversation with the British museum that Mehoob’s family decided to complete the unfinished work and make the award-winning design a complete story. It proved to be a challenging task.

    “At first, I was unable to understand how my brother had worked on that shawl, but I did not give up,” Mehboob said. “It took me almost a year to understand how he had used the thread in designing the intricate pattern, and when I finally finished the shawl, I felt a great sense of accomplishment.”

    Mehboob said it took him around 6 years to complete the shawl. “This was a huge work and this helped me understand the intricacies involved in the craft.”

    Shabir Alis Shawl
    This intricate and complicated-pattern Kashmir Shawl is an interesting masterpiece. Its design work won Kashmir Sozni artisan, Shabir Ali a major British competition and the product was supposed to go to the British museum. He had barely started to work on it when Shabir died leaving it unfinished. It was his elder brother, Mehboob Ali who put in his hard work and completed the work in six years. Once the wonder was ready, the family decided against selling it to the British Museum as they decided to retain it as a souvenir at home. KL Image: Bilal Bahadur

    The Father

    Now Mehboob is an extraordinary artisan. Living in Srinagar’s Zadibal, he speaks proudly of his craft and the inheritance of knowledge. He is a proud third-generation artisan.

    His father, Ali Mohammad Beigh specialised in weaving pashmina shawls and mastered the art of sozni. This led him to get a number of honours. In 2006, he received the Shilp Guru Award for his work on ten samples of shawls. Conferred upon master craftspersons in recognition of their excellent craftsmanship, product excellence, and their roles as gurus in the continuance of crafts to other trainee artisans as a vital part of the traditional heritage of India, Shilp Guru Awards was given to him by Vice President Jagdeep Dhankhar in 2002. Given as part of the Golden Jubilee of the resurgence of handicrafts in India, the award carried a gold coin, Rs 2 lakh prize money, a tamrapatra, a shawl, and a certificate. A respected artisan, he won the state award in 1984 and the national award in 1992.

    The Sons

    While mastering the art, Ali Mohammad passed down his knowledge to his two sons, Mehboob Ali and Shabir Ali. They improved upon the knowledge and experience they inherited and also aged all the awards.

    Mehboob, for instance, received three state awards in 1987, 1988, and 1989. In 1996, he got national awards for his work on a Jamawar shawl and another national award for Sozni in 1997.

    Working diligently, Mehboob has achieved a level of mastery and is being considered matchless among his peers. “We are illiterate, but this art has given us everything  – pride, dignity, and a sense of accomplishment,” Mehboob said. “Our work keeps us so engrossed and busy that we don’t get time to think about other things.”

    Apart from finishing a challenging work that his brother left unfinished, Mehbooba has his own anecdotes. “The index finger of my left hand has a visible mark developed by needle pricks while embellishing the shawls,” he said. “This is the occupational hazard so no regrets.”

    Beighs have dedicated their entire life to Sozni embroidery. That is why, despite Shabir Ali’s absence, Mehboob’s passion and commitment to this craft never fade; they are not just working to earn a living but also working to keep the craft alive and vibrant. This art form has given them a sense of purpose and a source of pride. Mehboob hopes to pass down the knowledge to the next generation, almost following in the footsteps of his father.

    By the way, Mehboob has decided not to give the Shawl to the British museum. He intends to retain it as the memory of his brother and not sell it. He said he is getting buyers for the product but will not sell it. Money apart, it is an emotional product that links him with his dead brother.

    A Regret

    Shabir left two sons behind – the elder one is a seventh-class student and the younger one is in the third primary. Mehboob is taking care of his brother’s family. He regrets that the system is cruel and inhuman. “If a government employee passes away, he still gets some kind of help,” Mehboob said. “What about us? We may not require financial help but at least somebody could have come to condole the death, a loss that was primarily ours but the art belonged to all of us and we had lost a major artisan.”

    Mehbooba Ali Shawl
    Mehboob Ali Beigh is a master Sozani artisan. He works on complicated designs and works with 300 artisans within and outside Srinagar. However, he sees the unfished work of his late brother, Shabir Ali as a perfect masterpiece. KL Image: Bilal Bahadur

    Mehboob regrets that the system is not sympathetic towards the artisan community. “Nobody looked towards the handicrafts during the two years of Covid19. It is my God that kept the families intact,” Mehboob said. “When the sales fell flat, we devised products for local consumption involving bag sewing and papier machie boxing for the weddings and that is how we could survive those two years for the meals.”

    New Trend

    The Covid19, he said, despite being trying proved a blessing in disguise. “After a very long time, the local market revived and now people are acquiring the Pashmina and Jamawar shawls the same way they acquire gold. This is a new trend that is on the surge. This trend is now a major source of income to the handicraft artisans,” Mehboob said. “People find the value of precious shawls almost like gold.”

    Mehboob said he has been telling his family clients that he is willing to acquire all the kani shawls and Jamawal shawls at a cost higher than they paid when they bought them 20 or 30 years ago. “If somebody had purchased a shawl for Rs 50,000 from us, say 30 years ago, used it for all these years, I am willing to pay more to get it back,” Mehboob said, insisting he purchased a few. “This has led people to make comparisons between a Kani or a Jamawar shawl with the gold. People purchase gold and when they require money, they sell it but the buyer deducts some money. In the case of shawls – as long as they do not have damage, I do not deduct anything and instead, I pay more.”

    Mehboob said he works with more than 300 artisans within and outside Srinagar and almost 25-30 artisans come to his workshop and work there in the daytime. “We are in Sozni and we work on any kind of material – sarees, pashmina, semi-pashmina, pherans and crewel and this is helping us keep our worker network busy, Mehbbob said. “The stress is there in the market but we are finding ways and eams to keep the workforce engaged.” He, however, asserted that the surge in the local market, especially during the wedding season, has emerged as a major support base for the artisans.

    Content with the work he is doing, Mehboob said the new generation in the family is studying but it is unlikely that they will desert the sector. “Our children study, and get degrees but come back to the craft that we have inherited,” Mehoob said. “This is a craft that has been given to us by spiritual personalities and that is how we make best of the life even in challenging situations. We will live by the needlework, come what may.”

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    ( With inputs from : kashmirlife.net )

  • PM Modi gifts Meghalaya Stole, Nagaland Shawl to German Chancellor

    PM Modi gifts Meghalaya Stole, Nagaland Shawl to German Chancellor

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    New Delhi: Prime Minister Narendra Modi on Saturday gifted a ‘Meghalaya Stole’ and a ‘Nagaland Shawl’ to German Chancellor Olaf Scholz who is on a two-day visit to India.

    Meghalaya stoles were originally woven for the Khasi and Jaintia royalty, who considered them as a symbol of their power and status.

    The weaving of Meghalaya stoles has been passed down through generations with a rich history.

    Also, the shawls woven for centuries by the tribes in Nagaland are known for their vibrant colours, intricate designs, and the use of traditional weaving techniques, which have been passed down from generation to generation.

    On Saturday, the Prime Minister received Scholz for a ceremonial welcome at the forecourt of Rashtrapati Bhavan.

    In a tweet, Ministry of External Affairs (MEA) spokesperson Arindam Bagchi said Scholz’s visit is an opportunity to further deepen the multifaceted India-Germany strategic partnership.

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    ( With inputs from www.siasat.com )